It depends on the sunflower varieties you choose. When you’re growing sunflowers from seed, most sunflower plants take 70–100 days from the time you sow the seed until sunflower heads bloom. Smaller varieties are usually fast growing and bloom earlier, while a giant sunflower takes longer.
There are many types of sunflowers. The traditional giant sunflower can reach 12–15 feet tall, producing large seed heads packed with edible seeds. Small sunflower varieties are ideal for pots or borders. For continuous color, try succession planting with branching varieties. When deciding on sunflowers to grow, consider if you want cut flowers, acres of sunflowers, or seeds for roasting.
To plant sunflower seeds, choose a sunny spot or use seeds in pots. Outdoors, sow sunflower seeds 6 inches apart for smaller plants or several inches apart for giants. Indoors, you can plant seeds indoors in pots and later transplant them along a fence or in beds. The best planting time is after the frost has passed.
A: If your peace lily plant isn’t producing flowers, it may not be getting enough light. Peace lilies prefer bright, indirect light rather than low light if you want blooms. Try moving the plant closer to a bright window but avoid direct sunlight, which can scorch the leaves. Feeding during the growing season with a balanced houseplant fertilizer can also help keep your peace lily blooming.
A: To water your peace lily correctly, wait until the top inch of soil feels dry before watering. In warmer months, your watering schedule may be once a week, while in cooler months it’s less frequent. Always use a pot with drainage holes and empty the saucer after watering to prevent the plant from sitting in water, which can cause root rot.
A: Yes, peace lilies thrive indoors and are considered an easy plant to grow, even in low light. However, blooms may be fewer. For a beautiful peace lily with more flowers, place it where it gets bright light but avoid direct sunlight to keep the large leaves healthy.
A: Start small by choosing easy-to-grow potted plants or herbs that thrive indoors. Use vertical space with shelves or hanging plants to maximize floor space. For limited areas like apartments or home offices, compact container gardening works best.
A: Low-maintenance plants like peace lilies, rubber plants, trailing plants like pothos, and indoor trees such as the fiddle leaf fig are among the best indoor options. They adapt well to indirect light and are easy to care for.
A: Herbs like basil, mint, parsley, and thyme are some of the best herbs to grow indoors. They grow well on sunny windowsills or under LED grow lights, especially during the winter months when natural light is limited.
A: Yes, indoor vegetable gardening is possible with the right setup. Leafy greens, cherry tomatoes, and radishes are great vegetables to grow indoors. Use containers with drainage holes, provide enough light (natural or LED grow lights), and water when the soil feels dry to avoid root rot.
A: Plants that are easy to grow still need adequate lighting. If your space lacks natural light, using grow lights (especially LED grow lights) can mimic sunlight, ensuring gardening success even during darker seasons.
Alright, let’s talk about Monsteras—the stylish, Instagram-worthy house plants that has taken over plant parenthood. You’ve probably come across this beauty before. Those big, dramatic, hole-filled leaves? Yeah, that’s a Monstera. And let me tell you, they’re as fun to grow as they are to admire.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through everything you need to know about caring for a Monstera plant. I’ll keep it simple, beginner-friendly, and full of little plant-parenting gems I’ve learned along the way.
Besides being an absolute showstopper in any room, Monsteras are pretty easygoing. They tolerate low light, don’t demand constant attention, and can bounce back from neglect better than most houseplants. Plus, they’re excellent air purifiers, making them great for improving indoor air quality.
Monsteras aren’t just a one-size-fits-all plant. While the classic Monstera deliciosa, commonly known as the Swiss cheese plant, is the most well-known (and the one you’ve probably seen all over Instagram), there are actually several different varieties—each with its own unique charm.
Think of this as the smaller, cuter cousin of the deliciosa. It has smaller, heart-shaped foliage covered in Swiss cheese-like holes, giving it a super playful, delicate look. Adansonii is a vining Monstera, so it’s perfect for hanging baskets or training up a moss pole.
If you want the ultimate Monstera flex, this is it. Obliqua has even more dramatic holes than adansonii, to the point where the leaves look like lace. It’s so rare (and pricey) that most people will never own one—but it’s fun to dream! Just be warned: If you see a cheap "Monstera obliqua" at a plant shop, it’s probably an adansonii being mislabeled.
This one is totally different from your typical hole-filled Monstera. Instead of fenestrations, its leaves are thick, textured, and have a beautiful rippled effect. It’s a slower grower, making it a great choice if you don’t want a plant that takes over your living room too quickly.
The ultimate showstopper! These plants have striking white or yellow marbled patterns on their leaves, and each one is completely unique. The downside? They’re incredibly rare and expensive—like, "cost more than your rent" expensive. But if you can get your hands on one, they’re absolutely breathtaking and a collector’s dream.
If you’re keeping your Monstera indoors (which most people do), you can technically plant it anytime. Just make sure you place it in a spot with bright, indirect sunlight. Outdoors, it should be planted in a warm, humid climate—think tropical vibes.
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Want to grow your own Monstera? You’ve got two main options: cuttings or seeds. Cuttings are way easier and faster, but if you love a good challenge, you can try growing from seed.
If you have a healthy Monstera and want to create a baby plant, you can propagate through cuttings. Here’s how:
Growing a Monstera from seeds is totally possible, but it’s a slow and unpredictable process. If you’re up for it, here’s how:
Monstera needs bright, indirect light. Think of the dappled sunlight they’d get in their native tropical forests—direct sun can scorch their leaves, but too little light will slow their growth. A spot near a window with filtered light is perfect. If your Monstera leaves start looking leggy or stretching toward the light, it’s a sign it needs a brighter spot.
Water your monstera when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry—stick your finger in to check! These plants hate soggy feet, so make sure your pot has drainage holes to let excess water escape. Overwatering can lead to root rot, which is a nightmare to fix. In the winter, your Monstera will need less water, so scale back to avoid drowning it.
Use a well-draining soil mix that mimics the loose, rich forest floor they love in the wild. A blend of potting soil, perlite, and orchid bark creates the perfect airy texture, allowing roots to breathe while holding just the right amount of moisture.
Monsteras thrive in warm, humid conditions—65–85°F (18–29°C) is their happy place. If your home tends to be dry, you can:
✔️ Mist the leaves occasionally
✔️ Use a pebble tray with water underneath the pot
✔️ Invest in a small humidifier (your plant will love you for it!)
Cold drafts and sudden temperature drops can stress your Monstera out, so keep it away from open windows in winter.
A bright living room, bedroom, or office space is ideal. Just avoid placing your Monstera near AC vents, heaters, or drafty doors, as these can dry it out too quickly. If you notice monstera’s leaves turning brown or has crispy leaf edges, it’s a sign your plant needs more humidity!
Monsteras are fast growers, especially in the spring and summer! Feed them with a balanced liquid fertilizer (diluted to half-strength) once a month during the growing season. When fall and winter roll around, cut back on feeding—your plant will naturally slow down, so it won’t need extra nutrients. Over-fertilizing can lead to salt buildup in the soil, which burns the roots (and nobody wants that!).
Monsteras can get big—like, take-over-your-living-room big. If yours is getting out of control, trim it back to maintain its shape. Use sharp, clean scissors to snip off any damaged or yellowing leaves to keep the plant looking fresh. Bonus: If you’re cutting healthy stems, you can propagate them and grow more Monsteras!
If you’re growing your Monstera outdoors, a thin layer of mulch around the base can help retain moisture and regulate temperature. Indoors, this isn’t necessary, but if you tend to underwater your plants, a bit of moss on top of the soil can help retain humidity.
Monsteras outgrow their pots every couple of years—or sooner if they’re thriving! Signs it’s time to repot:
✔️ Roots are poking out of the drainage holes
✔️ Growth has slowed down (despite good care)
✔️ The soil dries out way too fast
When repotting, go for a pot that’s 2 inches larger in diameter and make sure it has drainage holes. Fresh soil will give your Monstera a nutrient boost and more space to stretch its roots.
If your Monstera lives outside during the warmer months, bring it indoors once temperatures drop below 50°F (10°C). They hate the cold and will suffer if left outside. Indoors, keep it away from drafty windows or heating vents, as sudden temperature changes can cause leaf damage.
A: Absolutely! Monsteras are famous for being super easy to care for. With a little attention to watering, light, and occasional repotting, your plant’s gorgeous foliage will thrive. They're a great choice if you're just starting your plant parent journey.
A: Technically, yes! If you’re lucky enough to grow a Monstera deliciosa to maturity, it can produce a fruit that tastes like a mix of banana and pineapple. However, indoor plants rarely bloom or fruit, so don’t count on it unless you’re growing it in a tropical garden.
A: Monsteras naturally evolved in tropical rainforests, where sunlight is often limited by the dense canopy overhead. Those oversized leaves act like nature’s solar panels, maximizing light absorption for energy. They also serve as storage for water and nutrients, which helps the plant thrive even when conditions change. It's all about survival in a low-light environment!
