All plants need a bit of TLC to thrive. So pest control and general plant care and maintenance must always be something you have to take note of.
All gardeners start somewhere, and this is where you'll be able to learn the basics, allowing you to solidify a good foundation for your gardening projects.
Visit our knowledge base if you want to learn the basics down to the most unconventional questions.
The key to managing vigorous or invasive vines is consistent pruning and monitoring. Remove seed pods before they open to prevent self-sowing, pull up suckers and runners as they appear, and prune the vine hard at least once per year. Choosing non-invasive native plant species like coral honeysuckle or American wisteria instead of their invasive counterparts is the single best step you can take.
Absolutely. Star jasmine and black-eyed Susan vine are among the best choices for containers. Use a large pot with drainage holes, fill it with a quality potting mix, and provide a small trellis or obelisk for the vine to climb. Container vines need more frequent watering and fertilizing than those planted in the ground.
Coral honeysuckle and trumpet vine are the top picks for attracting hummingbirds with their tubular flowers. Dutchman’s pipe is a host plant for the pipevine swallowtail butterfly, and sweet autumn clematis attracts a wide variety of pollinators, including butterflies, when it blooms in late summer.
Pothos is widely considered the easiest plant to propagate. It roots quickly in water, tolerates low light, and is very forgiving of mistakes. Spider plants and tradescantia are also excellent starting points because they naturally produce offsets or root readily from cuttings.
No. Rooting hormone can speed up root development and is especially helpful for hardwood cuttings or slower-rooting plant species, but many houseplants—like pothos, philodendron, and herbs—root perfectly well without it. If you are just starting out, try without rooting hormone first and see how your cuttings perform.
You can, but results may be slower. Most plants enter a period of slower or dormant growth during the colder months, which means cuttings take longer to root. If possible, propagate in early spring or summer when plant hormone activity and daylight hours naturally support faster new growth.
A: Most spring vegetables to grow should be planted as soon as the soil can be worked in the springtime, which is often 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost. Hardy crops like peas and spinach can handle cooler soil, while others may need to wait until the ground warms slightly.
A: The radish, peas and sugar snap peas, and various leafy greens like lettuce are widely considered the easiest spring vegetables. This is because they have a short growing season, grow quickly from seed, and generally face fewer pest issues than summer crops.
A: If a frost is predicted after spring planting has begun, cover the garden beds with a frost blanket, burlap, or even old bedsheets overnight. This traps the radiant heat from the soil and protects tender bright green leaves from freezing. Be sure to remove the covers the next morning once temperatures rise.
Bitterness is usually caused by heat. When the temperature rises, the plant thinks it is time to reproduce and produces seeds (bolting). To prevent this, keep your salad garden well watered, use mulch to keep the soil cool, and provide some shade during the hottest part of the day.
Absolutely! Most leafy greens like lettuce, spinach, and arugula have shallow roots and thrive in containers. Just make sure the bowl has drainage holes and you use good potting soil.
Succession planting means you sow seeds every 1 to 2 weeks instead of all at once. This ensures that when one batch of lettuce is finished, a new batch of young leaves is ready to harvest, giving you a constant supply of fresh greens.
